If Steely Dan was drinking wine while recording 1973's "Countdown to Ecstasy" it was probably Chenin Blanc from the Central Valley labelled as "California Chablis." Much like the wider yacht rock genre, Chenin Blanc has rarely received the respect it deserves. Although once seen as a simple filler grape in California, Chenin is finally getting attention for making some of the most competently pleasurable and freaky wines in the state. When left to its own devices Chenin will quietly drop an umami bomb in your glass, coaxing you in with its smooth honeyed texture, before attacking your palate with a heavy amplification of acid, dried flowers, and sea breeze salinity. Don't set out on a yacht rock cruise without it, but be warned...things might get weird.